Bangli's mountainous region centers around the spectacular volcanic crater (or caldera) of Mount Batur, which last erupted in 1994. Mount Batur itself is actually just a small volcano, but its setting is in the heart of a huge crater 14km in diameter. Close to the volcano is the large crescentshaped Batur lake, all surrounded by the high walls of the crater rim. The important Pura Ulun Danu Batur pays homage to the life-giving quality of the lake, which is considered a sacred water catchment.

As the road elevates steadily from Bangli or Tampaksiring, nothing in the surrounding grey landscape of bushes and garden plots suggests the presence of a volcano. But over one more small ridge a dizzying view awaits the eyes, encompas sing the crater and beyond. From Penelokan, the main road runs right round the rim towards Kintamani, the panorama shifting as you circle around the crater.

The sheer size of the crater conjures up images of the massive eruption of the original Mount Batur taking place tens of thousand years ago. The volcano is still active today as Balinese all over the island who still remember the great eruption of 1917 will testify. It claimed thousands of lives and destroyed hundreds of temples. Old people might tell you this was "the year when the world shook". Other eruptions have taken place since, forcing the local population to be relocated, along with several of their temples - including one of the main Bali temples, Pura Ulun Danu. Initially inside the huge crater, this temple has been relocated to the top of the ridge overlooking it. Here it now offers an impressive view of Mount Batur.